Aug 19, 2012

Review: essence colour arts nail base

I’m so sure that I’m not only one who got super excited when saw the press release from essence, telling they are going to launch big set of pigments which could be used as eye, lip and nail color with their bases. Time for DIY cosmetics! Especially HURRAH FOR THE NAIL BASE!! As known EU is totally lacking the chance for frankenpolish-creation, mainly because of lack of suspension base. Though this one seems to fill-in our hope! …That was what I was thinking, AT FIRST.

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(Image taken from essence’s website; click to enlarge)

It slightly changed when I saw the official tutorial for use of pigment here (see avove). Even on their official youtube video, you can see the “official” way of pigment use, which is something different from I expected; I mean, pigment was NOT directly mixed in bottle of nail base, but much used like a water for solid watercolor palette :/
Though I still had a bit of hope in my mind, like “who knows if suspension reagent was really in or not?”. Then I found I was probably a bit too optimistic, when I saw ingredient list on the display;

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I could see NO SUSPENDING REAGENTS in the nail base :(
I mean, suspending reagents = mineral materials like hectorites or silicas. They  (at least one of them) are ALWAYS mixed in glitter/shimmer polishes to prevent pigment sinking, but not in here. I was already kinda disappointed on this moment, but fortunately (or unfortunately) I still could keep my motivation to give a try, so I bought the following…

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...nail base and two of their pigments. Pigments I got were multicolor fine glitter one and black fine shimmery one; well, theoretically they SHOULD be the most promising pigments for the nail base, as it’s from same collection.

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Then I grabbed two empty bottles, 1) filled them up with the base, 2) poured 4 tiny spoonful (I used micro-spatula) of pigments and 3) shaken it very well. It suspended pretty well this moment, but big importance is if it’ll hold pigments/glitters better than normal clear polish or topcoats, so I’ve got ready for the topcoat I usually use for my franken (P2 Color Re-new)…

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...and did exactly the same thing, but this time I only used glitter; I think if the base can hold the glitter I can clearly say “it’s suspension base”.

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So these are what I got right after the shaking. Two on the left are based on essence’s new nail base, and right one is made with topcoat. I left them quietly to see what will happen…

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...and this is what I got with glitter, only TWO HOURS after the shaking. ALL SANK. Super disappointing. No difference each other; though one is simple topcoat, which never hold pigments and glitters, and another is the product which is named as “nail base”. NO WAY :(
But how about the black pigment? At least it still looked unchanged within 2 hours, so I let them stay for one day;

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And got this. Still looks OK? But well, I have to say NO to that with macro shot under the strong light;

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I think you can see most of pigments have been sank or floated, and only tiny bit is held. Disappointed, again :(((((

So overall, I’ll conclude as essence’s so-called “nail base” is NOT a nail base as we expected. It never holds glitters, even never holds fine pigments, just works as same as usual topcoats/clear polishes. I think this is HUGE disappointment for all the nail polish fanatics, especially for them who don’t have any solution to get suspension base (as me in EU). I was really hoping this nail base to be the suspension base, even I lost most of my hope when I checked ingredients :(
Also the method essence is recommending doesn’t look OK for me; how you can COMPLETELY remove excess pigments from used brush, to prevent the dirty mix? I think most of nail polish user knows how pigments/glitters stick really tightly to brush and not so easy to remove all.
I really hope essence will fix these issue; especially if they are really thinking to launch them as the part of core line in the future. Idea is great, concept of DIY color cosmetics by MAJOR brand is very new, but just it’s not perfect…I’m just hoping for their quality to be better, then it’ll make worldwide polish addicts freakin’ crazy!! :D

26 comments:

  1. That's really disappointing. I kind of expected this outcome, but still... It's one more of those half-assed innovation attempts by Cosnova. I'd be way to lazy to mix myself a nail polish the way their tutorial suggests...

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    1. I could expect too but I thought I must give a try; And I really couldn't follow their tutorial too.
      It's innovative, but just not perfect...Meh :/

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  2. Oh no! I was hoping that this would be a franken base too, how disappointing! Thank you for such a great review, you've saved me wasting a lot of money xx

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    1. I'm happy that this small review helped you; I needed to guard me myself to spend a money for crap :)

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  3. I was also hoping it would suspend glitters!! but as soon as I saw the bottle in the shop, I also knew it wasn't going to happen;_;
    however, I still like the idea of this collection but yeah, it would have been 100x better if it was a real suspension base!
    here this nail base is nearly the same as regular clear polish except you might have a little more cellulose as it's a bit thicker...

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    1. Yeah because there's no ball in it, that'll be another clue :(
      I'm just thinking it's really kinda wasteful; they had great idea, they have great market, just they didn't have enough marketing research...they didn't understand the real "needs".
      I hope it'll get fixed; especially if they are really thinking to put these as a part of core line...

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  4. Wow, what a fail on Essence's part! The least they could have done was provided a suspension base. How disappointing =(

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    1. And they definitely have suspension base, that they have glitter polish in clear base called "special effect topper"!! They could provide the base used for these, that'll be much simpler :/

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  5. Just put some xanthan gum or guar gum in the polish, it will become thicker and the glitters and pigments won't sink to the bottom

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    1. I've heard xanthan gum/guar gum doesn't work so properly.
      See the link here
      Actually it make sense that it doesn't work so much that it's much water-soluble and NOT polish (organic reagent) soluble stuff. Also I own few fumed silicas, so I can help myself by adding them.
      But what I wanted to say with this post was "why essence is releasing normal clear polish as so-called nail base". If it even won't hold fine pigments, that completely make no sense at all to call it as "nail base"; That's my opinion :)

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    2. Yes, you're right, I just said that so that you wouldn't throw that polish away, it could still be useful even if it's obvious that essence didn't do a great job with that. And I read articles in which people were happy with xanthan gum... I'm sorry if what I said was untrue.

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    3. That's not a problem, at least you gave me a hint! ;)
      I'm not going to throw it away, it's still usable as diluting base or clear polish :D

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  6. How disappointing :( That's why they tell you not to mix glitter and the base but just pick up the pigments with the brush... So it might work with any other clear polish as well. Still I like this collection a lot. But I am glad I did not pick up the lip base, I just read the ingredients *eww* Great post!

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    1. Yes, simple conclusion is really "essence's nail base = clear polish" DOT. There's no INCI info in their website too, that's why I took a pic at my local shop :) I'm happy it helped you, not only for nail base but for other too!

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  7. That is a common problem with franken polishes, but even more disapointting is the same result with a nail base polish... Hopefully someone could make a working base for the creative polish "chefs" :)

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    1. Whenever I see "made in XX (wherever in EU)", I always feel like why none of such a supplier is NOT selling any suspension base...though it's packed in small bottle and goes bit expensive than big batch, WE'LL BUY!!

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  8. Total bummer!! I was excited when I saw that they were releasing a nail polish base. Boo. Sorry you had to go through all that, but I'm glad you took pics and shared your experience with us! Great review.

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    1. While I got such a result I simply felt "I MUST share this" otherwise people can even HATE essence...and that's not my hope :( I wish they'll correct the issue...

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  9. Replies
    1. It surely is :(
      Especially because idea is really great...

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  10. I'm so happy I found this review - I was for sure going to buy heaps the next time I'm going to Germany, now I'm not buying any of it - thanks!!

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    1. I'm happy too that this helped you, it's really a pity :/

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  11. やっぱりこうなりますよね…私も手持ちのもので自作してみたものの、時間がたつとピグメントが底に沈殿してしまうばかりで「いやグリッタートップコートじゃないんだし…」とがっかりしてます。OPIの某色が気に入らず手持ちのピグメントを少量投下したらこれまた分離しました。うーん、分離しない方法があるんでしょうかね?フランケン用として販売されているベースを使えば分離しないのかな??

    ご存知かもしれませんが、グリッターにも耐溶剤とそうでないものがあるようで、知らずにトップコートに混ぜて数分放置したらグリッター表面のオーロラ加工がさっぱりなくなっておりました。笑えなーい!(´∀`)

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    1. 今回のはピグメントと一緒に使ってね、なネイルベースとやらを発売したのに何で沈んでんのさ!!いうのが趣旨だったりします。何ていうか詐欺のにほひ。いやラメ沈まないなんて何処にも書いてませんけどね。フランケン用ベース(正確にはDIYネイルカラーベース)、なはずが何でラメ沈む組成なのさといいたい(´・ω・`)
      ちなみにフュームドシリカとか突っ込むと沈まなくなります(普通にラッカー用増粘剤として使われていますし)がそもそもシリカの入手が凄え大変です。一般人にはまず小分けしてもらえない。なので期待してたんですけどね……(´;ω;`)

      あとグリッターの耐溶剤性、Lynnderellaで一度大騒動になっていましたw(ラメの色抜けを指摘されて「仕様よ!!」と逆ギレしたw)
      ピカエースなんかは耐溶剤をうたっていますが、安めのものだとなかなか探すのが難しいのかも知れませんなー。

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  12. Thank you so much for this review, as I was just about to pop to Germany to get this base...
    And I must say your blog is lovely, I will for sure be back to keep reading it :) Have a lovely day !

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    1. Happy that my post could be your help! :)
      If they're going to modify it or re-release as other collex, I'm sure I'll review it again (and strongly hope it'll be positive review that moment).
      Thanks for enjoying my blog <3

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